Fragrant Kolkata style biryani layered with tender lamb koftas and the much loved potato. Prepare the koftas first, then assemble the rice and cook on dum.

Ingredients & quantities

Lamb koftas · about 6–8

  • 500 g boneless lamb, finely minced
  • 50 g chopped onion; 20 g ginger; 20 g chopped garlic
  • 1 tbsp cumin paste; 30 g fried onions (berista)
  • 30 g chopped coriander; 20 g chopped mint
  • 10 g chopped green chilli; 10 g salt
  • 1 tsp each chaat masala, fresh garam masala and white pepper
  • 2 tbsp ghee (corrected amount)
  • 3 boiled eggs, grated

Biryani · single portion, 3 koftas

  • 180 g aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
  • 3 cooked lamb koftas; 1 medium potato, boiled and fried
  • 2 tbsp ghee; 1 tbsp berista
  • ½ tsp kewra water; ¼ tsp rose water
  • 2 tbsp saffron milk; 1 tsp biryani masala
  • Salt to taste

For boiling rice

  • 2 green cardamoms; 2 cloves
  • 1-inch cinnamon stick; 1 bay leaf
  • 1½ tsp salt for boiling water
  • Enough water to boil the rice

Method

  1. Mix the koftas. Combine the corrected 500 g minced lamb with the onion, ginger, garlic, herbs, fried onion, spices, ghee and grated egg. Knead until the mixture holds together. Form 6–8 koftas.
  2. Set the koftas. Shallow fry until firm and cooked through; reserve for layering.
  3. Parboil the rice. Boil the soaked rice in salted water with the whole spices until about 70% cooked. Drain.
  4. Layer the biryani. Grease a deep pot with ghee. Layer rice with 3 koftas and the fried potato. Add berista, biryani masala, saffron milk, kewra and rose water. Cover with the remaining rice and drizzle over the remaining ghee.
  5. Cook on dum. Seal the pot and cook on a low hob for about 20–25 minutes, or bake in a covered ovenproof pot at 160°C for about 20 minutes. Ensure the lamb is thoroughly cooked.
  6. Rest and serve. Rest covered for 10 minutes, then open and serve hot.

Cook’s tip

The source combines a batch of 6–8 koftas with a single portion of rice using three koftas. Refrigerate the extra koftas promptly for another portion.

Using modern equipment

A lidded ovenproof casserole offers a steady dum finish at 160°C. An induction hob also works on its lowest setting with a heavy pan or heat diffuser; check that the rice does not catch.

At the table

Serve hot with the potato and koftas visible on top; a light salad or raita can sit alongside.

Your tips & comments: What would you keep true to the Bengali dish, and what would you adapt? Tell us below.